Fae Cosplays
Removing shine/ detangling a wig

miho-orion:

This is a tutorial/review on using fabric softener to remove shine form a wig. Since I used a curly wig, I’ve included steps to untangle and re-curl a curly wig.

Before:

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After:

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Review:

Overall, the fabric softener did remove some of the shine and made the wig super soft and smell absolutely wonderful. In sunlight, the wig looks almost natural. However, in flash on under unnatural lighting, it still looks rather shiny. I tried this on a cheap $10 wig I got off G-Market(Qoo10) as a test but I’m sure it will work on other wigs too. I didn’t follow the exact tutorial that can be found online which was to soak the wig in equal parts softener to water for 5 days. In the tutorial next, you will read that I used much less and soaked it for a much shorter amount of time, maybe that’s why it’s still a little shiny. But it still worked out quite well for me. Overall, I would recommend using this method to either remove shine or untangle your wig.

Tutorial:

1)      Prepare a bucket of water just enough to submerge your wig in and add a little hair shampoo (I used my daily one which was Dove) and mix to dissolve the shampoo. Dump your wig in inside-out and gently agitate or swish the wig.

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2)      Leave for 5 mins before taking the wig out and rinsing it thoroughly. Let the water flow down the wig from the top and use a low/gentle stream so as to reduce tangling. Next, take some conditioner (once again, I used my daily conditioner which was Follow Me) and rub it into the wig fibres (I add it to a little water but I think it would be better if I hadn’t).  Use a wide tooth comb and start combing out the tangles gently working your way from down to up.

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3)      After sufficiently detangling your wig, rinse off the conditioner. Prepare a bucket filled with a little fabric softner and some water. The ratio I used was about 1 part softener to about 3 parts water. Prepare just enough to fully submerge the wig. Once again, flip the wig inside out and swish it gently in the bucket before letting it soak for 2-5 days (I left it for 2 days).

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4)      After the amount of day you’d like has passed, take the wig out of the bucket but DON’T RINSE IT. Just place it in a towel and roll up the towel to remove as much water as possible. Then, place it on a wig stand with a towel underneath and let it air dry. You can use a hair dryer on cool setting if you like (I didn’t need to as I found that the wig dried fairly fast). Anyway, take a good long whiff of that awesome softener smell. It’s gonna be there for quite a long time but who cares; it smells fabulous.

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5)      Once it dries, you can start brushing it. NEVER BRUSH A WIG WHEN IT’S WET. It can damage the fibres and permanently warp them. Since I’m brushing a curly wig, I just take a small section of hair (I just grab a curl) and start gently brushing it.

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6)      Once it fully untangled, (don’t ask me how it suddenly looks like there is more hair. It’s just the magic of untangling)

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twist the hair in the direction of the curl,

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and you can either hair spray it now and let go (it will still be form a nice curl like this)

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or be like me and curl it around you finger, pin the curl up

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and when you’ve done the whole head, spray with hair spray and then remove all the pins.

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And there you have it; a beautiful new looking wig with perfect untangled curls. And not forgetting that it smells like flowers. The after photo at the start was under sunlight and the photo above was under my room ceiling light at night and the next photo is with flash.

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So as you can see, it’s still quite shiny but the wig is totally tangle free and with beautiful curls once again so I’m not complaining. At least it still is natural-looking in sunlight. Anyway, natural hair is still suppose to be a little shiny in lighting.

Hope you fine this tutorial/review useful! And let me know if you have and questions or comments. :D

lesliemerzdavis:

Got these two done :D I have such a hard time with the lighting in the photos of figures that have a lot of white >.< I’m not exactly a photographer

clearcrystalcosplay:

I hope this will help you, because I’m sure it would have helped me when I started this. (◕‿◕✿)

officiallynotaconspiracy:

I’m going to preface this with I am in no way an expert. This is actually my first build. I’m currently at the bondo/painting stages. Someone just suggested that making a tutorial is actually a great way to track progress and give back to the community. So here we go!

I’m going to do a tutorial for each step. This is just for the paper process of the build.



Things you will need:

  1. Printer (30$)

  2. 110 lbs Card Stock (10$)

  3. 2 colored pens (2$)

  4. Exacto Knife (7$)

  5. Glue Gun (7-10$)

  6. Glue Sticks for Gun (3-7$) (some people like to use elmers glue)

  7. Measuring Tape


With printer it adds up to about 70$; without pinter it should only be about 35$.



Sep 1: Download

The first thing you should do is download Pepakura Designer. Link: http://www.tamasoft.co.jp/pepakura-en/

This will allow you to edit sizes and get the needed files.

Then you download your files. Most people like to start off with a helmet. I started off with an arm piece.

Links:

http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/24086-*The-Official*-Halo-Reach-Pepakura-Files-Thread

http://halocostuming.wikia.com/wiki/Pepakura_File_Index

Step 2: Sizing!

Now this can be very difficult. I usually prepared to do each piece at least 3 times.

Basically you get out a measuring tape, which I forgot to mention earlier, sorry. And you guess where you assume the piece will start and where it should end. You do this by looking at a reference picture. and you see where it starts and ends on them. Then you project where it should start and end on you. Kinda complicated to explain I know.

After you have what you assume to be the right measurements in inches. Use a converter to convert them into millimeters.

Now to put the measurements into the program.

Go to: 2d Menu > Change Scale > Scale Factor

We measured for the Height on the thy. So put your converted number into the height section. You’ll usually be measuring for height.

Everything else is linked, so when you convert one number it changes them all.

Helpful hint!

While in this stage to save yourself some hassle, you might want to change the threshold. Basically that is just the amount of times you have to fold the piece. The higher the threshold, the more you have to fold and the more you’ll have to do over time.

The threshold is naturally at 175, you might want to reduce it to 160-165.

To get to this point go to: Settings > other settings.



Step 3: Print!

Ctrl + P

You might have to go to print preview first. I have to I don’t know why. If I don’t then it only prints the numbers. It’s weird.  

Make sure you’re doing it on the card stock and not printing on regular paper.

Step 4: Scoring

Scoring is a time consuming process, but very helpful for further steps.

You need your printed out sheets, 2 color pens(I usually use a pink and blue), and if you want to a ruler(I usually just use the other paper as a straight edge).

There are two types of lines.
A basic dotted line: - - - - - (Pink) And a dotted line with a dot in it: - . - . - (Blue)

Pick one color for one line and the other for the final line.It’s easier if you pick one color for one line always. So if you use pink for the normal dotted line try to keep it pink throughout the whole process.

What you’re going to want to do is draw a straight line on top of the dotted line. Its not enough to just draw it, you’re going to want to press down and leave an indent onto it. This will help you will folding it in further steps.

(Under the image) We’re going to play the game called pretend that I did this step before I cut it out.

Once you’ve drawn a line over all the dotted lines its time for the next step!

Step 5: Cutting!

This is pretty self explanatory. Use the exacto knife to cut out your pieces. Be very careful. Something someone told me is you’re more likely to be cut by a dull knife then a sharp one, so make sure you change out your blades as often as possible.

I usually like to do a page or two at a time. Then glue it. Because most attaching parts are on the same page.  So its easier then just cutting it all, folding it all, then gluing it all. It gives your body time to rest between steps as well.

Something I do during this process is have a grocery bag attached(you can have a trash bin) to my desk, so as soon as I’m done cutting away I can throw out the scrap paper. So nothing really accumulates.

Step 5: Folding.

You might want to check the settings again, to check which line is which.

A Valley Line: Gets folded down. It’s supposed to look like a valley.

A Mountain Line: Most of your lines will be mountain lines. They are supposed to fold up and look like mountains.

The way I drew the v shapes is the way it should be folded.


Like I said before I usually like to do 1-2 pages then glue. Then cut out 1-2 more pages then glue again. Every time I cut out a piece I usually fold it and put it in a box to get ready to glue. It just makes it easier for me. You can cut out all of them at once, then fold them all at once, then glue them all at once. Its up to you.

Step 7: Glueing!

I like to use hot glue because I’m impatient. Other people like to use elmer’s white school glue. I’ve been told against using glue sticks. I think one day I’m gonna test all 3, and possibly even tape out. Just to see what yields best results.

Now with hot glue you do risk burning yourself. I’ve done it a few times. There are protective things you can get to help prevent that. I don’t use them. I have them. And I get burned because I don’t use them.

Now with this step it kinda depends on the file you download. Some of them have numbers for every tab, and some only have a few tabs numbered, and some don’t have any numbers. The numbers are very helpful for figuring out where the pieces go.

If yours doesn’t have any numbers you’re gonna want to do this infront of your computer with the Pepakura Designer open. Even if yours has the numbers this can be helpful. When you have it open just click the piece you have and see where it goes. If you also downloaded the Viewer it shows with lines what its connected to.

Now you just put the puzzle together.

Once done with this process check to see if it fits. If it does. Write down the size you used as the permanent size! This will help you with future projects. Then just repeat these steps for all the other pieces. Good luck!


(Next Tutorial Coming Soon!)

All of it together: http://i.imgur.com/DzlrGG9.jpg

Cosplayer: https://www.facebook.com/NotAConspiracy

Please let me know if you like my tutorials!

"Tooling" Foam Accessories

captaincrapster:

Okay kiddos, enough of you asked, so here’s a tutorial. This is primarily for getting an engraved look on your props/accessories/etc, though I’m throwing in basic foam craft technique tips as well. 

Let’s use this bracer as an example:

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dangerous-ladies:

Look: these boots are very, very simple. Actually sewing them together is no problem once you’ve got it drafted. 

It is, essentially, a sock. A sock with a fancy cuff, with a sole glued to the bottom. It is also zipper-free. You are going to make a sock that fits over a shoe, and you are going to use a knife to peel off the edges of the sole, tuck the fabric under, and then glue the soles back in place so you have a nice, clean edge.

You will need:

  • Spandex fabric in whatever color you need.
  • Extra spandex fabric with the same amount of stretch for drafting your pattern.
  • Pattern paper.
  • A pair of ballet flats (or whatever shoe type you need.) Make sure you get the right “shape”; Supergirl’s boots, for example, have a pointed toe, and look out for sole color; we usually just go with black because anything else will get dirty/paint will chip. You also want to find one with an easily removed sole; as a general rule, the cheaper the shoe, the easier time you’ll have with it. We usually spend about $5 tops on our flats, haha. If you’re trying to do heels, be very, very cautious; if you damage the structural integrity of the shoe, you might be in some trouble when you need to walk on them. You also want to make sure they are as basic as possible; remove any bows and whatever possible.
  • An exacto knife.
  • Hot glue
  • Usual sewing implements; pins, scissors, rulers, whatever. 

You can draft it yourself easily: take your scrap fabric and wrap it around your leg as I’ve pictured above in the pink, and pin it along the back. You want to make it snug, but not so snug that you can’t get your foot out of it either. POINT YOUR TOE WHILE YOU DO THIS. Additionally, wear the shoe while you pin it around your foot; it’ll need to fit over the shoe in the end anyway. Don’t worry about the bottom of your foot; it’s easier if you make the curve under your heel snug, and the front of your toes, but you’re not going to be closing off the bottom.

When you have it pinned neatly and evenly, trim the edges down. Leave enough excess for seam allowance along the back, and enough for tucking on the bottom. (Tucking into the sole, that is.) Take it off your foot and you should have some weird shape (like a mirrored version of the pattern I have pictured above.)

Now: if you trace that onto pattern paper and smooth out any raggedness you may have made in cutting, you have your basic pattern. Then all you have to do is alter the top of the pattern: a /\ point for Wonder Woman, a V for Supergirl, etc. Because we’re making Supergirl, here, you’ll want it to be in two pieces, as shown in the pattern above. Wherever you cut to change the design, be sure that you add seam allowance (as you can see on our bottom pattern.) Also make sure that the top edge of your sock is snug enough to your calf that you won’t have to constantly bend to fix them.

I’ve taken pictures of my and Christine’s patterns. Obviously, if you don’t want a seam down the front, you need to cut the fabric on a fold. You will need four of the top cuff and two of the “sock”; the top cuff is two-layered so it’s got a clean top!

Sew all the cuffs: in the last picture, that’s what they should look like. First, sew them all at the back seam. Then layer them together to sew the top seam, so that when you fold them right-side out, you have finished cuffs as pictured. Topstitch whatever you want.

Sew the sock’s back seam.

Sew the cuff to the sock. Be very careful about the corners, so that they are sharp. Again, topstitch whatever works.

Use the exacto-knife to separate the shoe from the sole. Don’t take the whole sole off — you don’t want to pop it out of alignment, or compromise TOO much of the shoe’s integrity. You just need enough opened that you can tuck the bottom edge of your sock into the space between.

Once your whole sock is finished, it’s time for the crazy part: put it on, with your shoe. Then, with the help of a friend or with the acknowledgement that your spine will hurt trying to do it to yourself, start putting the bottom edge of the sock under the edge of the sole, and gluing in place. We have found hot glue works best because it hardens/sets fast: anything else and you may be stuck sitting there wearing your shoes for HOURS trying not to ruin your work.

Now you have boots.

Go kick some supervillain ass, girl.

cosplaying-on-a-budget:

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I’ve had several questions lately about making prop swords and knives. This is the method I use when I want to make them out of wood for durability.image

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1. After viewing multiple pictures from screen shots and figurines I estimate how tall I want the sword…

The Making Of Gal Gardner: a Very Random Guide on how to sew a Green Lantern Jacket!

cannedpotatoes:

If you are wondering about what version of Gal Gardner (aka the female version of Guy) I’m talking, is this one:
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If you’re going all “omfg I’ve already saw this sunningly beautiful thing” it’s because I already posted it on my personal tumblr page theultimatemoose and she is my girlfriend and I will end you if you touch her.

All things said, more explanation on how I made this behind the cut!

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