Need some patterns for your armor costume? Check out my pattern collection for male and female armors! :)
Talent: Fae Idrus / Cosname: Fae Rie
Photo by: N.E Project
If you’re looking to have a split toned wig but you can’t find the exact color you want, or if the color isn’t on the correct side, THIS IS A TUTORIAL 4 U. This also works for full wigs too though~
I didn’t get too many good pics because my hands were in gloves and covered in ink most of the time so please bear with me. I might remake this tutorial if I get the chance.
Things you need:
Isopropyl alcohol 70%
Acrylic ink bottle in color of your choice (If you are trying to make it black or any dark color I suggest getting two bottles). NOT ACRYLIC PAINT.
Clean Spray bottle
Large plastic baggie
Hair clips/ sewing pins
And obviously a wig, either white (recommended) or a color similar to what you want to achieve. No you can’t dye a dark wig any lighter.
Set up a workspace where you can get messy. I did this in my basement on a cardboard box. Split the wig down the middle, leaving the side you want to dye unprotected.
I didn’t get a good picture of it by itself, but in the above picture you can sort of see. The way you want to cover the wig is by taking a large plastic bag and ripping it down one of the seams and pinning it to the wig head where the parting of the colors will be. Cover the seam with duct tape so that it doesn’t bleed through to the other side. You’ll be able to see this better in the following pictures if this is unclear.
There is no set ratio of dye to alcohol. Depending on the color you want, mix the isopropyl alcohol with the acrylic ink in the spray bottle, using a funnel. The more vibrant the color, the more acrylic ink you want to use. I used half a bottle of rubbing alcohol to one small acrylic ink bottle for this color.
Separate the wig hair into sections so that you can get even coloring. Spray each layer with this mixture until it is wet and comb through.
Once all of the hair is coated and combed it should look something like this. Also this is a better picture of how to split the wig before dyeing it
Let this sit until it gets dry and crunchy. Rinse with hot water, gradually turning the faucet to cold until the water runs clear and then air dry. If you are attempting BLACK or anything of the sort, you will need to repeat this process 2 to 3 times, rinsing and allowing it to air dry in between each session. I know, it’s a pain in the rear but look at how it turns out…
If this is too confusing or time consuming for you, I do commissions so shoot me an ask. Thanks for reading! ^w^
Well, here’s my first tutorial ever, you guys. I’ve seen only a few others on sora’s shoes, but a lot of them had too many steps and complications for my patience level. So this is a simple and easy way to do it! USES A LOT OF HOT GLUE!
1). I started out with an old pair of converse that I never wore anymore. Remove the laces and put the shoe on. Glue the sides of the shoe down to the tongue starting from the toe end, but only go about half-way, or you won’t be able to easily put the shoe on.
2). Get some bendy, but still strong, wire and bend it into the desired shape of the hump in the front of Sora’s shoe. You can look at references to figure out just how big it should be.
3) Next, I wadded up some old spare fabric i had and stuck it in-between the wires and shoe. (You can use something other than fabric like paper if that’s more easily available to you, but keep in mind that it may cause crinkling noises when you walk in them.)
Secure everything in place by covering it in cling wrap. Use as much as you want until you’re satisfied. Try to make it so the hump is smooth for when you cover it in fabric later.
4) Cover the hump in one layer of fabric, just to help keep things smooth. (It doesn’t matter the color of this fabric).
5a) Then you can cover the hump in black fabric. Make sure the part where the fabric meets is centered towards the center of the shoe, since it’ll be covered up by the zipper later.
5b) This step is optional. My yellow fabric was too thin to not show the converse logo through it, so I covered the back half of the shoe in black first.
6) Now, cover the back half in yellow fabric. I just cut out a fairly rectangular piece. Make sure to use as much fabric you need so you can fold it over and glue it inside the shoe. Use as much hot glue as you need to keep it secure.
7) At this point, I realized that the tongue needed to be separate for the rest of the shoe and covered in black, so I gently pulled the yellow apart where it met in the middle and folded the fabric into the shoe. Then get some black fabric, cut it into a small rectangle and glue it to the tongue, folding it over and gluing to the underside of the tongue as well.
Next, you need to cut out black fabric in the shape of what I’d call a “pointy bow”. This will then be glued around the back of the shoe and connecting to the black in the middle of the shoe on both sides.
Make sure to add a little rectangle of yellow fabric in the middle of the top of the shoe.
8) Now, i forgot to take pictures of the next few steps, but they’re really pretty simple. I used this bias tape to make the white trim around different parts of the shoe. Glue the tape around the edges of the black strap around the back of the shoe, and then add some around the top of the shoe. Finally, add some around the tongue.
Now, this part is a little tricky. In order for the shoe not to completely fall off your feet when you wear it, you need to glue more of the tongue to the sides of the shoe. just attach the edges of the tongue. throughout this step, keep putting the shoe on to make sure it still fits. This part is just trial and error until you get it just right.
9) Now you’re ready for the zipper! I just bought the biggest grey ones I could find and covered the sides with the bias tape. Measure the zipper and cut it to the length you need. Begin glueing it down starting from the toe of the shoe, until you get to the middle. This is where you need to decide how far down you need the zipper to be unzipped. It needs to be unzipped pretty far in order for it to reach each side of the tongue. Then glue it all down!
10) Now you need to attach the straps. I found a long strip of navy and measured it to wrap across the shoe. I also bought some buckles to put on each strap. All you have to do now is glue them down in an “X” shape. The best parts to glue them down to is along the part where the black stretching around the shoe meets the black of the hump, to cover up the line, then go across where the yellow rectangular piece meets the black. This way, you can’t tell theres any “seams’ or whatever.
11) Very last step! I found some cardboard and cut two pieces of rectangles with rounded corners on the top, painted them grey to match the shoe laces, and once they were dry, I bent them so they’d fit around the toe of the shoe. Attach with glue, and YOU ARE FINISHED!!!!
Hope this was informative enough, but let me know if there’s anything you want explained further! Enjoy!
Had a 2nd Avengers shoot with my two best buds and with my better outfit. Here’s Nio taking selfies with me. XD
So you wanna wear a cape?
(God, this new uploading system is balls. It took me forever to arrange them in the right order, because according to Tumblr, despite the pictures being both numbered and uploaded in order, they should just go where-ever they please.)
In this tutorial you’ll be learning to make a basic single-layer cape that attaches from the collarbones. It is patterned as a circle so that it drapes and flows, giving it a lot of body and “flow” when you walk. It has a hand-rolled hem on all sides to give it a clean, finished look without any raw edges.
It works for characters with “trimless” single-coloured capes, such as Superman, Mon-El, or Thor. I will be doing tutorials for trimmed capes or double-layered capes (or capes that have different coloured layers) at a later date, as well as a proper tutorial on collared capes.
What you will need:
- Basic sewing equipment (pins, tape measure, scissors, sewing machine)
- Sufficient fabric; a half-circle cape will take roughly 120”x60”, but ideally you just need a rectangle that is double in length as it is in width. You also want this fabric to be light-medium weight and made of polyester so that it is easier to care for and IRONS WELL. A tiny bit of stretch is alright, but be aware that the more stretch there is, the more your cape will desire to be as close to the ground as possible… and who likes a droopy, sad cape?
- An iron and ironing board.
To make things easier, you may also want:
- A flexible ruler makes life easier to do the curve of the neckline.
- A friend to help play “compass” with you.
- If you have the physical constitution of wet paper towel (as I do), you may want to pop an Advil, because you’re going to hemming for fucking hours.
Ready? Here we go.
Spread your fabric out on the nice, clean floor. Fold it in half down the middle so that you have a square. Then fold it diagonally, so that you have a “slice”; the third and fourth pictures demonstrate this, but you basically want to have something that will open up to be one piece. This is going to save you a lot of time pinning the bottom curve of your cape.
Once you have your fabric laid out nicely and the edges lined up beautifully, take your measuring tape and decide how long you need this cape to be. Josh here is 5’7” or so, and we cut the cape to 57.5”, this way the finished cape will land just around his ankles from the back of his neck.
Remember compasses? Not the kind you use to save your lost ass from the wilderness and find “North”, the kind you used in sixth grade math class like twice and thought was really cool but had no practical use for. Well, now you get to do something Similar. Line up your measuring tape with that top “point” of your fabric, so it sits nicely in the middle. Have your friend put their finger on it, with enough pressure to keep it from sliding but still leave it room to “swing”. You’re going to use this to draw a large curve across the fabric, using whatever length suits you — if you want to cut a 58” long cape, then use the 58” mark on the measuring tape to pin across. You can see us doing this in picture six.
Finish pinning the whole way across and then cut just below the pins. When you open it up, you have a big ass cape! (Picture seven.) But it doesn’t have a neck curve yet, and you’ll want to add that so it hangs around your neck nicely. Fold it up again in half (don’t worry about the pizza slice this time) and measure your neck to see how wide you want this neckline to be. We picked 20”, which means we needed to cut an arc that spanned 10”. Now, I’m impatient with math, so I just bent my flexible ruler into a curve and used my measuring tape to make sure it was equal distance away from the corner, but if you’re better at math than I am, you can figure out how many inches you need to “swing” just like you did to cut the bottom of the cape. (A 10” half-circle needs about a 6” swing, for the record.) When you’re done that, cut.
And now you have a cape!
But it’s not finished yet.
If you’re fancy, you may have something called a “rolled hem foot” that lets you do stuff like this easily, but a) I find those things more trouble than they’re worth and b) what am I, a wizard? I’m not fucking around with a foot when I can do it manually. You might be a wizard, though, so if you want to explore this magical sewing foot, you can read someone else’s tutorial here.
But if you’re cool and want to stick with me and learn how to do it manually, that’s cool, too.
Now, if you just folded over the edges once and sewed it down and called it a day, your cape might still be okay. But you don’t want fraying –– that stuff is ugly, and you’ll appreciate the extra work of doing a rolled hem, which is just a fancy way to say “fold that shit over twice.”
Picture 9 shows this pretty clearly, I think –– fold over the edge you want to hem once, iron it, and then fold it over again, so that the ugly raw edge is trapped inside. Pin it all. You’re going to want to pin it very evenly and close together, and TAKE YOUR TIME. If you rush it, you’re going to end up with an ugly, uneven hem, and it’ll bubble up in weird places because you’re hemming a big curve, here. This can be very tedious and take a long time, especially if your cape is huge. (This is why it is usually faster to just make a double-layered cape. UGH, HEMMING.) But the results are worth it; a single-layered cape with beautiful hems is gorgeous and usually less bulky than a double-layered one, so they fly better.
Once you have everything pinned (taking care to pin down the corners neatly, too) you can sew it all. Take your time and make sure the fabric is tight/flat when you sew over it, lest you end up with weird bubbles and misplaced hems. Stay close to the edge of the hem, so that you don’t end up with overhang.
Speed will only sabotage you.
Once you’re done sewing it all down, take out any remaining pins and give the whole thing a good ironing. This should smooth out any remaining warps in your fabric, as you’re using a polyester and they can be warped back into line a little with some heat.
And then enjoy your cape. You earned it.
Go race some airplanes.
Okay, this post is going to be lengthy, so please bear with me. I want to talk about preparing to attend a convention, how to pack sensibly, and what NOT to do at a hotel. I’ve been attending cons for nearly a decade now and aside from that I have traveled often and widely with my family. I have also worked as hotel cleaning staff, and I know exactly how much someone will hate you for leaving the bathroom looking like a bomb of wig hair, eyeshadow, and toothpaste went off in it. (Hint: a lot.)
HERE WE GO
Basic Craft Foam Attack on Titan 3DMG Blade Tutorial
Disclaimer: By no means is this most exact or realistic way to make 3DMG but it makes due for a fairly decent con-safe cosplay prop that doesn’t weigh a ton or cost a fortune. This tutorial is only for the blades, but you can use the same basic principles and materials to make most of the other parts as well.
What you are going to need:
- 1 36” sheet of white foam board (from Michael’s)
- 1-2 (12” x 18”) sheets of white craft foam (I used Creatology Fun Foam)
- Black acrylic paint
- White acrylic paint
- Brown acrylic paint
- Silver 3D fabric paint (in the little squirt bottles for detailing)
- Silver metallic paint (I used Dazzling Metallics by DecoArt)
- Glue gun (make sure you have lots of glue sticks)
- 2 black pipecleaners
- Fine tip black sharpie
- Small paint brushes
- Tracing paper (or regular printer paper works as well)
- 1 small sheet of sand paper