People far too often assume I bought (!!?) my Peppermint butler for my Princess Bubblegum cosplay.. Which makes me feel like this;
Therefore: I will now give you the process of making him (from back in 2013).
My Peppermint Butler is made out of simple cotton fabric.
The basic pattern is pretty simple: round circle with red “slizes” and a blue “bottom” (a bit below the center of the circle). There’s two sides; I actually put an extra layer of white underneath so that the thread wouldn’t shine through.
This took patience! Always use pin needles to keep the fabric in place, and iron everything for the best result. No short-cutting!!
Used same colored cotton thread to sew the red and black onto the white circle.
Folded and sewed the bow tie + buttons in place on the front (before sewing together back and front side).
His adorably evil face was drawn with textile markers.
The back of his tuxeedo has a little “butt-flap” :) Two pieces of blue fabric sewn together, folded inside out, ironed and sewn along the sides one more time to maintain shape.
His arms and legs were made by sewing together blue, white and red fabric to a “strip”…
.. before sewing it together longside (always iron!!) and turning inside out and filling with stuffing (below).
Next; sew his sides to one side, making sure the red stripes aline !! (this took patience!) before sewing the backside towards the sides as well (look how cute he is all cuddled up with his little feet! X3)
You will then have a soggy looking fabric-cake.
Cut along edges, to make edges more smooth when turned inside out.
Turn inside out…
.. stuff with fluff and then sew together..
.. and your very own cosplay-buddie is finished and ready to go on adventures with you! :D
Please let me know if you’ve found this tutorial helpful or have any questions :) If you use this tutorial, please link!
More things I came across on Pinterest!
Recently I’ve been fighting with organizing all of my bobbins. For the most part they are a mess of thread everywhere. Basically this is an accurate representation of how my bobbins look;
I am super excited that I found this cheap way to organize bobbins! Just use toe separators and you can go from that mess to this;
Happy International Cosplay Day!
Decided to do various costest (it’s been a long week and I sorta miss costesting). Here’s my attempt as Darcy Lewis (from Thor 2: The Dark World).
Chara: Darcy Lewis (Thor 2: TDW)
Suggestion made by easyfox7
How to make sure what wigs sold on Taobao/Aliexpress look like in real life
You’ve maybe heard of Aliexpress. It’s an online shopping website where as a cosplayer you can find a big variety of wigs (among others), almost always cheaper than on ebay. Why is it so cheap? Aliexpress belongs to a Chinese company Alibaba that manages a whole lot of popular Chinese websites and applications, most famously Chinese biggest online shopping website called Taobao.
Thus, the wigs you buy on Aliexpress (their international shopping portal) come directly from China and are sold for much cheaper than on ebay. Consequently, the sellers you can find on Aliexpress you can also find on Taobao, selling exactly the same products.
Now why is this information relevant? When ordering something, you’d want to know if the seller is good and whether the wig actually looks the way it does on the pic. Problem is, many products on Aliexpress are not rated at all. BUT if you really want to be sure, you can go on Taobao and find the same product there, including ratings and maybe even pics of the product taken by buyers.
Few days ago we wanted to buy a wig that looked great on the photos provided by the seller. We double checked on taobao and found out by looking on reviews that the wig actually looked nothing like the seller suggested. Saved disappointment and time!
The pics above show how to navigate taobao to find reviews and pictures taken by buyers.
One question remains: how to find the same product? That’s the trickiest part. There are tutorials explaining how to search for things on taobao. A few tips: if you’re looking for wigs, the Chinese word is 假发, then you can narrow down by adding the color (look it up on google translate) or the name of the anime and/or name of the character (you can look up the Chinese naming on wikipedia).
The process may be a bit time consuming, but it can really improve your wig shopping experience on Aliexpress!
If you’re interested in our cosplays, please take a look! :)
First tutorial for the first Tutorial Sunday
How to print your own fabric Part 2. Great for doll clothe when you can’t find a pattern that fits your doll’s size ^ç^.
(I did NOT draw the images I used in this ‘tutorial’, I found them here on Tumblr ages ago but I can’t find the source, I believe they belong to Mibu-no-ookami on Deviantart but if you know for sure who draw them please tell me so I can credit them)
LadyLoki Collar - Tutorial/process diary
Finished collar: http://anachronisminaction.tumblr.com/post/89984844404/decorative-armor-collar-made-for-my-lady-loki
Whole Costume: http://anachronisminaction.tumblr.com/post/91103284009/lady-loki-costume-for-the-labyrinth-of-jareth
1- I started by cutting out a pattern in craft foam and trying it on to get a rough shape to start with. I used one of my halter tops as a the starting point: https://www.facebook.com/Anachronism.In.Action/photos/a.269392913112439.80726.269295446455519/590989730952754/?type=3&theater I then cut the pieces out in worbla, and attached the shoulders and collar together.
2- Recruiting the help of a friend, we began to shape the collar to my torso. Going section by section, I would hold the collar and heat it up, wait a second for it to cool then put it on. My friend would then help me hold it in place until it cooled and hardened again. I wore a t-shirt over my corset to protect both my skin and the garment.
3- (not shown) Once we had it shaped, my friend marked out the edge of the corset on the worbla, and I cut it down to 1” bellow that line. I also cut and attached the shoulder Flanges.
4- I began to design and draw on the snake skin pattern. I found the basic design by googling “snake skin stencil” then blowing up the image. I used tracing paper and a soft pencil to transfer the design. Once I had everything laid out nicely, I went over it in pen just in case the pencil rubbed off.
5- I used an engraving tool ( This exact one:http://www.ebay.com/itm/Electric-Wood-Burning-Crafting-Tool-5-in-1-Leather-crafts-Cutting-Fushing-Darice-/141320784036?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20e76008a4) with the knife tip to cut/burn out the snakeskin. There will be smoke, so either do this part outside or wear a respirator (or both!) and make sure your canisters are for fumes, not particles like a dust mask etc. Save those for sanding.
6- Added little strips for some more detail, making the different sections look more intentional. I also at this point, used a hole pun to make the lacing holes at the center back.
7- I tried the collar on with the corset to make sure everything was fitting, and made little tweaks to various parts to make then a little better.
8- I applied 3 layers of Gesso (Sanding in-between) before I ran out and used some spray primer. This ended up being a mixed blessing as there was something wrong with the can and after a little use it started spewing powered paint. I ended up having to do extra sanding to get it off, but decided to leave it on the snakeskin part of the collar because I thought it added a nice textural contrast.
9- I painted the collar using the same method as the other parts of my look costume. I started with two coats of metallic acrylic paint (jacquard lumiere) followed by a layer of rub’n’buff. I used dry brushing, and watered down acrylic in black to add some shadows. The final step was a few coats of satin finish sealer (one of modpodge, two of clear kryolan spraypaint)
10- To finish the collar, I lined the neck, shoulder, and edges in moleskin for comport. I also painted a satin ribbon antique gold with some fabric paint to lace the back closed; because it seemed easier than going to the store again :)
I hope you enjoyed seeing my process for making the collar. If you try anything similar, be sure to send me pictures!
Excellent tutorial, found here (X)
Autobody vinyl is fucking expensive.
Ahhhhhhhhhhhhh!!! This is so gorgeous.
Oh but its so expensive…
My friend Xiki asked about designing and building armor, and I wanted to do a quick rundown of the how the process goes.
Pepakura is Japanese for “I don’t speak Japanese so let’s just pretend it means ‘Papercraft.’” It’s the art of making a model from cut and folded paper pieces. Paper has the unfortunate property of not really being able to bend in two directions at once, so complex curves are difficult. However, you can create cuts in paper and fold it over to build the shapes you want. Pepakura is the way you do this. You can also use this method with foam, but foam has more flexibility so it’s a bit simpler.
I’ll outline the whole process, step by step:
Casting clear gems with EpoxACast
Short, written tutorial [video has more information, this is just a little summary!]:
- Chavant NSP Medium
- Oomoo 30
- Ease Release 200
- EpoxACast 690 Clear
- hotglue gun
ATTENTION!! Your health and safety should always come first! Please read the safety instructions that come with the materials and follow them!
- The basic shape of the gem is cut from clay.
- The facets are cut into it and smoothened with water
- The silicone is being mixed. Attention! Please follow the safety instructions for working with silicone! Mixing ratio is 1:1 and you’re done mixing once there are no pink or blue stains in the silicone.
- Only when all air bubbles have vanished (yet before pot life expires), the silicone is poured in a thin stream from the deepest point of the moldbox.
- After 6 hrs the silicone has cured. Before mixing and pouring the resin, I used a release agent. When working with resin, you have to follow the safety instructions and protect your skin, eyes and respiratory system by wearing the necessary protection and working in a well ventilated area! Mixing ratio is 100 parts of epoxy to 30 parts of hardener. Use a kitchen scale to measure, stir carefully so there will be no bubbles, pour carefully.
- After 24 hours the epoxy is cured and hard. You can now demold it.
- Pro-tip: Put mirrorfoil behind it for le shine!
You can find aditional information about the materials and possibilities this technique gives you in my facebook-gallery on this topic!