I’m going to preface this with I am in no way an expert. This is actually my first build. I’m currently at the
bondo/painting stages. Someone just suggested that making a tutorial is actually a great way to track progress
and give back to the community. So here we go!
Where I left you last time you just glued together a piece and determined that it fit. You might have even done a whole suit like that. Or just a few key pieces for now.
What you need for this:
Your previous pep (Hours and hours of hard work)
Fiberglass Mat or Cloth(10-15$)
Chip brushes (usually 1$ each, I would suggest 10)
A few small plastic Containers (usually about 2$ each, I suggest having 3)
100 pack of gloves (10$)
Face Mask (3$)
Shot Glass (1$ I’m classy I swear)
This process takes forever, so honestly I would suggest having a few peps done before you start on it. Unless its your first test out.
Step One: Set Up
You’re gonna want your area all set up before you start this. Make sure you have a clean work area. I use a table. You’re gonna have your resin(Poly or Aqua doesn’t really matter), don’t open it yet. Now your shot glass goes right next to that. Put all of your brushes into the first container.
In the next container you’re going to want to put in about 2 inches of acetone. Cover that acetone with the scrap fabric(it evaporates fast). This is where you’re going to put your brushes after you’re done using them. The acetone helps keep your brushes lasting longer. It prevents the resin from hardening too much and you can usually re-use the brush. It’s sometimes a little stiff, but still able to use.
The final container is gonna be used for your resin when we finally get to that step.
Put on your smock. Open up your gloves. Get them ready to change easily. Put on a pair of gloves. Now put on a face mask you’re working with dangerous chemicals.
You’re all set up to get ready to work.
Step 2: Resin
Now that you’ve got the area set up, its time to get started.
Read your resin container. It should tell you how much product to mix with what. Mine wants me to have 10 drops of the hardener for every ounce(hence the shot glass). So what I do is I measure out one shot of resin. Be careful. Then pour it into the container. Once the container has as much resin will fall, I put the ten drops in.
I like to do only one or two ounces at a time depending on what I’m doing. It hardens(cures) pretty fast. How to tell when it’s curing/hardening: You’ll see little bead like bubbles appear in it. This is when you know you should stop working with the product.
Once you’ve got it mixed( I mix with the brush). “Paint” on a very thin layer of resin onto half of one of your pieces. If you still have more resin in your container keep doing half onto the rest of your pieces, until you have no more resin in that container.
The reason why you do half of the piece is you don’t want the piece to collapse under the weight.
Once you are done with your first batch put the brush into the acetone. Press down, smoosh it around, try to clean it up as best you can. Then let it rest there, and cover it up. Move the resined pieces to somewhere safe to cure. This process usually takes 4 hours. Give or take. I live in Florida, it’s hot. Different weather conditions have different effects on curing. Where I live it’s 4 hours. If this is your first time doing it, you might want to do it at night and let it cure overnight.
If you’re just going to do another batch. You can keep your gloves on. If not I would suggest changing them(I have many pieces in many different stages so I usually change gloves).
Step 3: Resin(B+C)
Basicly everything you did above, do again. But now you’re doing the other half of the outside of the piece.
Basicly everything you just did. Do it again. But this time you’re doing the inside of the piece.
Some people like to do several layers of resin. I honestly think this is enough.
Step 4: Fiberglass
Now after everything is resined up. You should be able to notice your piece is a lot more sturdy than it was before. We’re gonna make it hard as a rock.
Now this is a very crucial part to make sure you do right. You could essentially mess up your piece and have to start all over from here. You want to make sure that it ends up being exactly the shape you want/need(I’ll show you some of my mistakes later).
Make sure you’re staring with new gloves. What your gonna do is cut up your fiberglass mat/cloth(I use mat, so that’s what I’m gonna refer to it as). So once your mat is cut up place it where you want it to go. Only do little portions at a time. Kinda like how you had to resin only half of it.
You want to make sure that everything you want to fiberglass is set up before you add the hardener to the resin. Because as you should have learned from now once you’ve set it up you’ve got to go through with it and you don’t want to waste resin. I usually have 2-3 pieces set up to be fiberglassed and do 2 ounces of resin.
Once you have everything set up to resin the pieces. Combine your hardener with the resin. Now a good way to start off would be to add a good amount of resin to the middle of the fiberglass. Not a crazy amount but a good dollop of resin to the middle. You let that sit for like five seconds. That’s to prevent the fiberglass mat/cloth from moving around a lot.
I do light dabbing motions really fast all around the fiberglass mat/cloth. You don’t want to add too much resin because it could harden and become a lot heavier than originally desired. You don’t want the added weight. It will be super annoying. You can feel the difference between a lightly added and heavily added resin.
If you don’t do enough you can always add more later. You can’t take away.
Now you wait for this to dry. Then do it again and again until you have the whole inside done. Only fiberglass the inside of the piece.
Some of my Mistakes!
Also I forgot in this tutorial that you’re gonna need a sander and sand paper.
I was going to mention this in the next tutorial, bondo, but some people like to finish at this part. So if you want to finish the building process here you’re going to need a sander and sand paper.
1. Sand paper(10$)
2. Sander (30$)
Now you don’t need a sander… but you need a sander.
At this point you should cut off all the excess fiberglass, and sand your armor.
Let me know if you like my tutorials or if there is anything I can improve on.
Here are some fabric superhero mask tutorials:
And some leather tutorials
You can make your own patterns by drawing your design on paper, cardboard or craft foam and testing how it looks on your face!
Hope this helps!
Bonus: Making a mask from a store-bought mask
CHEAP Black to Red DIY Ombre Tights Tutorial In Under 1 Hour!
I needed ombre tights for RWBY’s Ruby Rose and I didn’t wanna go online and buy like a freaking $39 tights… Sooo here’s a tutorial for tights that was under $10 :) And the best thing, besides how cheap it is, is that you can do it in any color you want :D
- 1 pair of white tights (got mine at Target for $5)
- 1 box of 8oz scarlet red RIT dye powder
- 1 box of 8oz black RIT dye powder
- (both of the dyes were from Michaels with a 50% off coupon so it was about $2.50 for BOTH)
- rubber gloves
- something to stir your tights with that you don’t care about like wooden chopsticks, plastic knife, etc.
- bucket & bathtub OR sink (depends on how messy you’re allowed to be cause the dye WILL stain if you don’t do anything about it)
- cleaning supplies like Clorox bleach or something for your tub/sink (honestly I don’t care who you are, CLEAN UP after yourself… No one wants to walk into a restroom where the shower/sink is all colored up…)
- Try to follow the directions on the RIT dye box as much as possible if you can. First wet your tights with hot water. Keep that to the side for now.
- I filled my bucket with hot water up to about where my tights could float freely pretty well. Then I was lazy and didn’t want to figure out how much dye to put in, so I just poured in the whole red packet in LOL. Also keep in mind to put your bucket in the bathtub, cause dye could splash around.***
- I put my tights in and stirred that sucker for 10 minutes straight. After 10 minutes were up I rinsed my tights with hot water gradually making it cold water until the water ran mostly clean.
- Now for the ombre part. Mark off where you want your ombre to start by tying a knot.
- Clean your bucket and repeat steps 1-2 with your other color.
- Dunk your tights in to a little bit under where your knot is. Now this the tricky part to explain. while your hold your tights in one hand keep dunking your tights in and out (pics 3-4) so that the dye doesn’t stay in one place the whole time. With your other hand gently squeeze out the dye from under your knot, so once again the dye doesn’t just settle there. Do this whole process for 10 minutes. After 10 minutes were up rinse like how you did last time.
- Let them dry :)
I can’t tell you how this will wash in the washing machine cause I haven’t tried it myself. To be honest I might just hand wash them though to be safe and so the colors don’t get too crazy.
Note: ***Start with the lighter color, the darker color over the lighter color will make it easier to color as well. If you’re doing something where the hues are similar or going from white to a color, I would suggest you dunk your first color a little above where the second color would go (so you start from step 6 and repeat for second color)
I hope that was comprehensible :x If not just send an ask and I’ll be glad to help :D
This is a tutorial/review on using fabric softener to remove shine form a wig. Since I used a curly wig, I’ve included steps to untangle and re-curl a curly wig.
Overall, the fabric softener did remove some of the shine and made the wig super soft and smell absolutely wonderful. In sunlight, the wig looks almost natural. However, in flash on under unnatural lighting, it still looks rather shiny. I tried this on a cheap $10 wig I got off G-Market(Qoo10) as a test but I’m sure it will work on other wigs too. I didn’t follow the exact tutorial that can be found online which was to soak the wig in equal parts softener to water for 5 days. In the tutorial next, you will read that I used much less and soaked it for a much shorter amount of time, maybe that’s why it’s still a little shiny. But it still worked out quite well for me. Overall, I would recommend using this method to either remove shine or untangle your wig.
1) Prepare a bucket of water just enough to submerge your wig in and add a little hair shampoo (I used my daily one which was Dove) and mix to dissolve the shampoo. Dump your wig in inside-out and gently agitate or swish the wig.
2) Leave for 5 mins before taking the wig out and rinsing it thoroughly. Let the water flow down the wig from the top and use a low/gentle stream so as to reduce tangling. Next, take some conditioner (once again, I used my daily conditioner which was Follow Me) and rub it into the wig fibres (I add it to a little water but I think it would be better if I hadn’t). Use a wide tooth comb and start combing out the tangles gently working your way from down to up.
3) After sufficiently detangling your wig, rinse off the conditioner. Prepare a bucket filled with a little fabric softner and some water. The ratio I used was about 1 part softener to about 3 parts water. Prepare just enough to fully submerge the wig. Once again, flip the wig inside out and swish it gently in the bucket before letting it soak for 2-5 days (I left it for 2 days).
4) After the amount of day you’d like has passed, take the wig out of the bucket but DON’T RINSE IT. Just place it in a towel and roll up the towel to remove as much water as possible. Then, place it on a wig stand with a towel underneath and let it air dry. You can use a hair dryer on cool setting if you like (I didn’t need to as I found that the wig dried fairly fast). Anyway, take a good long whiff of that awesome softener smell. It’s gonna be there for quite a long time but who cares; it smells fabulous.
5) Once it dries, you can start brushing it. NEVER BRUSH A WIG WHEN IT’S WET. It can damage the fibres and permanently warp them. Since I’m brushing a curly wig, I just take a small section of hair (I just grab a curl) and start gently brushing it.
6) Once it fully untangled, (don’t ask me how it suddenly looks like there is more hair. It’s just the magic of untangling)
twist the hair in the direction of the curl,
and you can either hair spray it now and let go (it will still be form a nice curl like this)
or be like me and curl it around you finger, pin the curl up
and when you’ve done the whole head, spray with hair spray and then remove all the pins.
And there you have it; a beautiful new looking wig with perfect untangled curls. And not forgetting that it smells like flowers. The after photo at the start was under sunlight and the photo above was under my room ceiling light at night and the next photo is with flash.
So as you can see, it’s still quite shiny but the wig is totally tangle free and with beautiful curls once again so I’m not complaining. At least it still is natural-looking in sunlight. Anyway, natural hair is still suppose to be a little shiny in lighting.
Hope you fine this tutorial/review useful! And let me know if you have and questions or comments. :D
Got these two done :D I have such a hard time with the lighting in the photos of figures that have a lot of white >.< I’m not exactly a photographer
Finished the roundup of How to build a Loki costume tutorials!
I hope this will help you, because I’m sure it would have helped me when I started this. (◕‿◕✿)
I’m going to preface this with I am in no way an expert. This is actually my first build. I’m currently at the bondo/painting stages. Someone just suggested that making a tutorial is actually a great way to track progress and give back to the community. So here we go!
I’m going to do a tutorial for each step. This is just for the paper process of the build.
Things you will need:
110 lbs Card Stock (10$)
2 colored pens (2$)
Exacto Knife (7$)
Glue Gun (7-10$)
Glue Sticks for Gun (3-7$) (some people like to use elmers glue)
With printer it adds up to about 70$; without pinter it should only be about 35$.
Sep 1: Download
The first thing you should do is download Pepakura Designer. Link: http://www.tamasoft.co.jp/pepakura-en/
This will allow you to edit sizes and get the needed files.
Then you download your files. Most people like to start off with a helmet. I started off with an arm piece.
Step 2: Sizing!
Now this can be very difficult. I usually prepared to do each piece at least 3 times.
Basically you get out a measuring tape, which I forgot to mention earlier, sorry. And you guess where you assume the piece will start and where it should end. You do this by looking at a reference picture. and you see where it starts and ends on them. Then you project where it should start and end on you. Kinda complicated to explain I know.
After you have what you assume to be the right measurements in inches. Use a converter to convert them into millimeters.
Now to put the measurements into the program.
Go to: 2d Menu > Change Scale > Scale Factor
We measured for the Height on the thy. So put your converted number into the height section. You’ll usually be measuring for height.
Everything else is linked, so when you convert one number it changes them all.
While in this stage to save yourself some hassle, you might want to change the threshold. Basically that is just the amount of times you have to fold the piece. The higher the threshold, the more you have to fold and the more you’ll have to do over time.
The threshold is naturally at 175, you might want to reduce it to 160-165.
To get to this point go to: Settings > other settings.
Step 3: Print!
Ctrl + P
You might have to go to print preview first. I have to I don’t know why. If I don’t then it only prints the numbers. It’s weird.
Make sure you’re doing it on the card stock and not printing on regular paper.
Step 4: Scoring
Scoring is a time consuming process, but very helpful for further steps.
You need your printed out sheets, 2 color pens(I usually use a pink and blue), and if you want to a ruler(I usually just use the other paper as a straight edge).
There are two types of lines.
A basic dotted line: - - - - - (Pink) And a dotted line with a dot in it: - . - . - (Blue)
Pick one color for one line and the other for the final line.It’s easier if you pick one color for one line always. So if you use pink for the normal dotted line try to keep it pink throughout the whole process.
What you’re going to want to do is draw a straight line on top of the dotted line. Its not enough to just draw it, you’re going to want to press down and leave an indent onto it. This will help you will folding it in further steps.
(Under the image) We’re going to play the game called pretend that I did this step before I cut it out.
Once you’ve drawn a line over all the dotted lines its time for the next step!
Step 5: Cutting!
This is pretty self explanatory. Use the exacto knife to cut out your pieces. Be very careful. Something someone told me is you’re more likely to be cut by a dull knife then a sharp one, so make sure you change out your blades as often as possible.
I usually like to do a page or two at a time. Then glue it. Because most attaching parts are on the same page. So its easier then just cutting it all, folding it all, then gluing it all. It gives your body time to rest between steps as well.
Something I do during this process is have a grocery bag attached(you can have a trash bin) to my desk, so as soon as I’m done cutting away I can throw out the scrap paper. So nothing really accumulates.
Step 5: Folding.
You might want to check the settings again, to check which line is which.
A Valley Line: Gets folded down. It’s supposed to look like a valley.
A Mountain Line: Most of your lines will be mountain lines. They are supposed to fold up and look like mountains.
The way I drew the v shapes is the way it should be folded.
Like I said before I usually like to do 1-2 pages then glue. Then cut out 1-2 more pages then glue again. Every time I cut out a piece I usually fold it and put it in a box to get ready to glue. It just makes it easier for me. You can cut out all of them at once, then fold them all at once, then glue them all at once. Its up to you.
Step 7: Glueing!
I like to use hot glue because I’m impatient. Other people like to use elmer’s white school glue. I’ve been told against using glue sticks. I think one day I’m gonna test all 3, and possibly even tape out. Just to see what yields best results.
Now with hot glue you do risk burning yourself. I’ve done it a few times. There are protective things you can get to help prevent that. I don’t use them. I have them. And I get burned because I don’t use them.
Now with this step it kinda depends on the file you download. Some of them have numbers for every tab, and some only have a few tabs numbered, and some don’t have any numbers. The numbers are very helpful for figuring out where the pieces go.
If yours doesn’t have any numbers you’re gonna want to do this infront of your computer with the Pepakura Designer open. Even if yours has the numbers this can be helpful. When you have it open just click the piece you have and see where it goes. If you also downloaded the Viewer it shows with lines what its connected to.
Now you just put the puzzle together.
Once done with this process check to see if it fits. If it does. Write down the size you used as the permanent size! This will help you with future projects. Then just repeat these steps for all the other pieces. Good luck!
(Next Tutorial Coming Soon!)
All of it together: http://i.imgur.com/DzlrGG9.jpg
Please let me know if you like my tutorials!
Finished the roundup of How to build a Loki costume tutorials!